New engine break-in with ceramic coated headers

New Engine Break-In and Ceramic-Coated Headers

We recommend breaking in a new engine using factory manifolds or an old set of headers. This is to prevent engines that are not optimally tuned from damaging the thermal coating on your new headers.
Warning
Normal exhaust gas temperatures (EGTs) for common internal combustion engines are between 600°F and 900°F. Lean-burn and heavily cammed engines (with considerable valve overlap) operate between 1000°F and 1100°F. The typical aluminized thermal ceramic coating can withstand intermittent EGTs of 1400°F. Regularly exceeding this temperature will cause failure of the ceramic coating.

Untuned or Improperly Tuned Engines Will Destroy Headers!

This applies to engines that are running either too lean OR too rich. Either condition creates excessive exhaust gas temperatures (EGTs) or heat, which breaks down the coating materials and the header welds. Sources of excess heat problems include:
  1. Lack of adequate intake air
    1. clogged air bleeds in a carburetor
  2. Incorrect ignition timing
  3. Ignition misfires
  4. Improper adjustment of the carburetor or fuel injection
    1. incorrect fuel pressure
    2. improper jetting
    3. dirty, clogged, worn-out fuel injector(s)
  5. Clogged or restricted exhaust system
    1. This can include exhaust systems that are too large
  6. Vacuum leaks
  7. Break-in oil and/or assembly lube in the combustion process
  8. Exhaust leaks (especially on fuel-injected applications)
Small air cleaners on high-power street rods are one common cause of high exhaust temperatures. Even a single 650-cfm carburetor consumes a small roomful of air every minute, so restricting the inlet with a small-diameter air filter is a big mistake. Those massive air scoops on competition cars exist for a reason.
These small diameter air filters are a bad choice for most engines

Timing and fuel system adjustments are another important consideration. A perfectly tuned motor is operating at maximum efficiency — turning fuel into power. An improperly tuned motor is converting fuel into excess heat. The absolute best way to know if an engine is running properly is to use an exhaust gas analyzer (smog machine). The 'shade tree mechanic' method is to use a timing light and read the color of the spark plugs and inside of the exhaust pipe. Both should be light tan in color. Black indicates a too-rich condition, and white indicates a too-lean condition.

Vacuum leaks are another common source of timing and fuel mixture problems. While it can be time-consuming to chase vacuum problems, it's worth the effort. An engine that is running right is less costly to operate, more fun to drive, and will last longer than one that is not. If you're not sure how to correct a timing or fuel problem, it is worth paying a professional to sort it out!

Assembly lubricants and break-in oils have become one of the most common contributors to high EGTs on new engines. Over fifty years ago, we were all using Molybdenum disulfide (Moly) assembly lubricants. Moly-based assembly lubricants are applied to camshaft lobes, engine bearings, thrust surfaces, valve stems/guides, and many seal surfaces. When moly (MoS), suspended in a petroleum base (as moly grease), enters the combustion process, it begins to burn off slowly by degrading the base oil as temperatures reach ~300°F. The moly itself begins to slowly burn off when temperatures reach ~600°F in the presence of oxygen. At higher temperatures (750° - 780°F), moly begins to oxidize and burn off rapidly. The burn-off process can raise EGTs by a small amount, or add just 150° - 200°F for the time it takes to remove it from the combustion process.

In contrast, our synthetic assembly lubricants burn off or begin to vaporize at a different temperature and rate. Most popular synthetic assembly lubricants have flash points higher than those of moly. From the lowest flash points of ~338°F to those that exceed 550°F. This is 38°F to 250°F higher than moly. However, the important point is that synthetic lubricants burn off more slowly and raise combustion temperatures by hundreds of degrees above that of moly.

A typical pushback response is often 'who cares' or 'your math is wrong' because normal combustion and exhaust gas temperatures already exceed 600°-900°F in a typical engine. That is correct, when the engine is only burning its normal fuel source. It is a belief among some that, because the combustion temperature already exceeds the burn-off temperatures of the lubricant(s), it instantly disappears without any external, negative effect. Unfortunately, that is not accurate. Adding break-in oils, moly, or synthetic assembly lube to the combustion process will raise the temperature from the normal 600-900°F to over 1400-1600°F during burn-off/vaporization. It is important to note that these lubricants are somewhat protected on valve stems, in valve seals, and behind piston rings that are not fully seated into the cylinder walls. Consequently, it takes some time to burn off enough excess lubricant to restore combustion and EGTs to normal.

Alert
Please do not trust the digital laser or infrared thermometers. They are great for external surface temperatures when calibrated correctly, but are not accurate for measuring exhaust gas temperatures within a thermal ceramic-coated header!

What if we don't have old headers or compatible exhaust manifolds for engine break-in?

We purchased new, ceramic-coated headers, and the instructions state in bold, all-caps letters, something similar to: INSTALLING CERAMIC-COATED HEADERS ON A NEW ENGINE CAN DAMAGE THE COATING AND VOID THE WARRANTY. This happens quite often, and there are some workarounds. However, this process requires patience. This can help protect the header finish from damage, but it is not guaranteed. Hopefully, the previous section above regarding assembly lubricants and EGTs was read and understood. We offer no express or implied warranty that the steps below will prevent damage to the header coating. THIS IS NOT A CAMSHAFT BREAK-IN PROCEDURE!

Warning
I will not address each and every step that should have been taken and addressed in advance. I will take for granted that a qualified and experienced individual has verified all the normal safety precautions (no fuel or oil leaks, jack-stand safety, no fire hazards, no rolling or movement hazards, a fire extinguisher is within reach, etc.).

NOTE: The engine will be started and run in short 30-40-second intervals. These intervals will burn off the assembly lube over time while attempting to keep the EGTs in check.
  1. Have the proper tools and equipment ready or connected (screw drivers, timing light, vacuum gauge, EFI controller, etc.)
  2. Start the engine
    1. Quickly check for any leaks (fuel, coolant, oil, etc.). Fix as needed.
    2. Allow the engine to run at idle for 30-40 seconds
    3. Shut off the engine
    4. Allow the engine to cool. Approximately 3-5 minutes (longer the better)
  3. Start the engine
    1. Check and set the ignition timing
    2. Allow the engine to run at idle for 30-40 seconds
    3. Shut off the engine
    4. Allow the engine to cool. Approximately 3-5 minutes (longer the better)
  4. Start the engine
    1. Make minor fuel system adjustments using the vacuum gauge (carbureted) or controller (EFI)
    2. Allow the engine to run at idle for 30-40 seconds
    3. Shut off the engine
    4. Allow the engine to cool. Approximately 3-5 minutes (longer the better)
  5. Start the engine
    1. Allow the engine to run at idle for 30-40 seconds
    2. Shut off the engine
    3. Allow the engine to cool. Approximately 3-5 minutes (longer the better)
    4. Find something else to do while the engine cools down
  6. Repeat step #5 another 20-30 times
Again, this is a time-consuming, patience-testing process. Hopefully, this procedure has burned off enough of the oils and assembly lubricants that could reach the combustion process. 

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