When Sanderson designs their headers, they are built on vehicles using the OEM starter for that application. Therefore, if someone tries to install the header on an application using a starter with dimensions different from the OEM starter, clearance issues my arrise. Ford applications may have issues with starter size. In GM applications, there might be an issue with the solenoid clocking or offset differences between flywheel diameters. These variations in which starter is installed on a particular application are beyond our control.
I am comfortable with the suggestion to always upgrade to an aftermarket mini starter for the reasons above. If there is one benefit for classic vehicles or any vehicle receiving an exhaust header upgrade, it would be the dimensional benefit. Header manufacturers have no control over what OEM-style starter a customer has on their vehicle. We have no control over the electrical rebuild process or the part numbers the rebuilder has decided to merge into a single 'fits all' replacement number. The header manufacturers cannot build every header for every possible starter a customer may use. However, we can recommend aftermarket mini-starters to address all clearance issues while offering additional benefits. Yes, we also understand the cost involved in purchasing a quality aftermarket starter. However, it is important to understand that this recommendation does not lie solely in header clearance. Other benefits of mini-starters include:
- Less weight
- Gear reduction (more cranking power and torque)***
- More torque (easier starting of high compression, high timing applications)
- Less energy demand
- Smaller overall size
- Multiple (or infinitely adjustable) clocking locations
- Virtually eliminates 'heat soak' issues
- Longer life
- ... and of course, increased clearance for headers***
Do the engine and electrical system a favor and install an aftermarket mini starter.
*** Mini starter manufacturers often offer a variety of starter designs. It is important to discuss the two most common styles: the standard mini starter and the offset gear reduction starter. It is best to use an 'offset gear reduction' starter, but not all are created equal. First, offerings with the best warranty usually include the highest-quality components and manufacturing. Choose wisely!
Common lower-priced mini starters are manufactured with the armature shaft inline with the starter gear. Gear reduction starters may use an internal planetary gear set/clutch system, with the gear and shaft in line. Other gear reduction starters use an offset armature. Early designs used a second offset gear within or just behind the mounting block. Modern offset gear reduction starters offset the entire housing, allowing for even more space and adjustments for component clearance (headers, oil pans, chassis, etc.). The straight-shaft starters, although offering a substantial improvement over common factory-style OE starters, do not provide as much improvement in header clearance. This is especially true for Chevy applications using 168-tooth flywheels rather than smaller 153-tooth ones.
Below, I have included a couple of comparisons of Powermaster starter offerings for small- and big-block Chevy engines.
The first is part #9100, which offers 170 ft-lbs of torque for up to 14:1 compression. Note that it has just 4 clocking adjustment options and is a straight-shaft starter. This is a fairly common choice for many street rodders and racers.
The next starter, part #9100, offers 12 clocking positions, 160 ft/lbs of torque, and up to 11:1 compression. Although it's slightly smaller overall, the only benefit is the additional clocking. Otherwise, the 9100 is better.