Basic Header Installation Procedure
Besides a few common tools, patience is the most important tool for installing a set of headers. Sanderson Headers are built by hand in the USA with the finest materials. When properly installed, Sanderson Headers will provide many years of trouble-free performance.
- Ensure the engine is properly tuned. Timing and fuel/air mixture must be accurate to avoid heat-related gasket problems or damage to the header coating (if you have coated headers). See additional instructions below if the engine is new or rebuilt and has never been started.
- Disconnect the ground lead from the battery.
- If lifting the vehicle to gain better access, support it on suitable heavy jackstands. Anything else is extremely dangerous.
- The cylinder head sealing surface around the exhaust ports must be perfectly clean. Remove all traces of carbon, old gasket material, and other debris, starting with a scraper and single-edge razor blade. Finish with a wire brush, then apply a final polish with Scotch-Brite® or a similar abrasive pad. Lastly, wipe all mounting surfaces with acetone (WARNING: Flammable!) or, better yet, an eco-friendly citrus-based degreaser.
- Install two studs, temporary installation use is OK, one at each end of the cylinder head, to align the flange.
- Apply a thin "smear" of Permatex® #82180 Ultra Black® Silicone (or a compatible product) around each exhaust port and every raised area on the header flange. The thickness of the silicone should be less than the thickness of a common Penny (0.060"). Allow the silicone to set overnight. or until completely dry. NOTE: ANY high-temp silicone is compatible, including Permatex® Red or Copper, Right Stuff, or, my preference, the Valco Cincinnatti brand.
- Permatex® Ultra Black® and similar high-temp silicones cure fully in 24 hours at room temperature
- PRO TIP: People often ask, "What is 15-20 ft/lbs if I cannot get a torque wrench and socket on the bolts?" A fast and easy way is to use a term I was taught as a teenager when I asked the same question. I was advised to reach 'pink knuckle' or 'pink fingertip' tight. As we apply pressure to a standard wrench (open-end, combo, or similar), our fingertips turn from their normal color to pink, then to almost red, as we cut off some of the circulation. Once our fingertip(s) turn pink, we have applied enough force to reach the desired torque. Remember, this is an exhaust component, and not part of the engine's rotating assembly or cylinder head. All it has to do is seal, and an exact torque spec is not critical.
- Some installers will use the same process (slightly thicker silicone application) at the exhaust collector (exit side of the header). However, installing a quality collector gasket is preferred. Collector gaskets are not included because some builders/installers already have reusable gaskets available. We recommend the optional copper collector gaskets. The primary benefit is longevity. Unless someone loses a gasket, they should nearly last forever. Drop one, accidentally step on it, and bend it: place it on the workbench, gently tap it flat again, and reuse it.
- Always use Grade 5 or better collector bolts. Optional, Grade 5 bolts with locking nuts can be added to the order. Sanderson does not include the collector bolts because most builders are picky. Some may want stainless, black oxide, or cap screws, or an endless number of choices to match the vehicle's look. The important component here is the use of locking nuts to prevent overtightening.
- CLEAN THE HEADER before starting the engine. Wipe down the header to remove any grease or fingerprints from the surface. Use this Formula:
- Add 1 cup Isopropyl Alcohol (70% or greater) to 4 cups Distilled Water
- Warm Slightly
- Add 3-4 drops of Dawn Dishwashing Liquid
- Add 1 cup Isopropyl Alcohol (70% or greater) to 4 cups Distilled Water
- For stubborn stains:
- Scrub gently using a white (1200-1500-grit) Scotch-Brite® or a similar light-duty abrasive pad with the above cleaner.
- It is OK to wipe down the header with mineral spirits or acetone (WARNING: Flammable!). DO NOT use any spray cleaners.
Special Instructions for New or Rebuilt Engines
Chrome, stainless, and ceramic-coated headers can be permanently damaged when installed on improperly tuned motors! Exhaust gas temperatures in fresh engines can easily exceed the limits of these materials, causing damage to the finish. For a first-time start-up, follow these recommended steps:
- Install an old pair of headers or your stock exhaust manifolds without gaskets. Start the motor and adjust the timing, carburetor settings, and valves. Check for any vacuum leaks. Run the engine for 10-20 minutes to burn out all traces of assembly lube.
- Check for soot at the end of the tailpipe, which may indicate a too-rich fuel mixture. Correct this before you bolt on your new headers.
- Let the motor cool completely, unbolt the old exhaust manifolds, and follow the procedure above to install your new Sanderson Headers.
A Few More Professional Tips
Whenever an engine component is changed, including the camshaft, distributor, carburetor, etc., follow the procedure as if we were firing the motor for the first time. It's more work, but it saves you the risk of ruining the header or their finish.
What is a BEAD of silicone?
The term "bead" used on older versions of the Sanderson Header installation instructions is somewhat confusing, in part because we naturally interpret this as a cylindrical, concentric, almost tube-like image in our minds. Like an O-ring. For this reason, we have replaced the term 'bead' with 'a thin smear' of high-temp silicone around each port. Therefore, Sanderson recommends covering the raised area around each port with a thin smear of silicone. The applied silicone will be less than the thickness of a common Penny (coin), approximately 0.060" thick. Less is better!
Sanderson recommends applying the silicone to all other raised areas on the flange, allowing it to dry fully, and then installing the Sanderson Headers. The images below offer an example of how the silicone application could look. However, at Century Performance Center, our installers apply the silicone ONLY around the ports themselves. We want the clamping force concentrated around the port, reducing the likelihood that a thickness irregularity will compromise the seal's effectiveness.
** Please note that silicone was intentionally not applied to the full width of the raised flange around each port for visual clarity in these images. Sanderson's recommends that the silicone should cover the entire raised flange surface around each port.
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